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THE DISH: Delectable seafood in Malindi

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By ABIGAIL ARUNGA
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Because I am a writer, I like visiting places that writers before me have lived, or frequented, or liked to go to.

Which is why, for example, when I was in Havana, I obviously wanted to go check out La Bodeguita del Medio, a bar said to have been frequented by numerous writers and celebrities; Ernest Hemingway, for one, Gabriel Garcia Marquez for another.

There is even an inscription in the bar said to have been written by Hemingway that reads – my mojito in La Bodeguita, my daiquiri in El Floridita – another bar that he would frequent when he was in Havana.

Creamy prawn.

Creamy prawn. PHOTO | ABIGAIL ARUNGA

When I was there though, the place was far too full to get a decent drink in, considering that I am not the only person who would like to have a drink where Hemingway did. I did, however, later visit another La Bodeguita in Trinidad, still in Cuba, and there was a lot more space there. You can read about that here.

While in Malindi, I had another chance to visit a Hemingway spot. As you know, Hemingway was said to have visited the East African coastline at least twice in his lifetime, and explored Kenya from Mombasa and Malindi all the way up to Machakos before heading to Tanzania, and thus it makes sense that there would be a seafood restaurant in Kenya named after him.

The garlic bread starter was delicious.

The garlic bread starter was delicious. PHOTO | ABIGAIL ARUNGA

I’m quite frankly surprised that there are not more. I’ve been dying to come here but I’m rarely, if ever, around Malindi and its environs to bother. So, this one time, I made sure to visit all the places that have been percolating in my head to visit, from varied reviews and recommendations.

The Old Man and the Sea comes highly recommended for seafood, and I finally had a chance to find out why for myself. The night we visited was a quiet one – I think there was only one other table that was filled and so we had the whole place to ourselves, which was quite nice.

My mystery cocktail.

My mystery cocktail. PHOTO | ABIGAIL ARUNGA

The linen was simple and elegant, as was the stately cutlery that matched it. I walked in expecting the place to be much bigger than it actually was, considering its rave reviews, but it is basically a house that has been converted to a restaurant, which helps it feel even more…well, homely, which I guess was the point.

The crepe suzette my companion had for dessert. It was too sweet for my liking, but if you like sweet things, then... PHOTO | ABIGAIL ARUNGA

The crepe suzette my companion had for dessert. It was too sweet for my liking, but if you like sweet things, then… PHOTO | ABIGAIL ARUNGA

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Our waiter was very conscientious while still managing not to be overpowering, which is my favourite type of waiter, no? Where you don’t have to look too long for him to appear, and he is ready with advice on the menu and can explain the menu to you without having to go ask the supervisor what this dish is or what is in it? Those are a few hallmarks of good service to me, and small things like that are what make me go back to a restaurant. You know how irritating it is when the person who works at the establishment can’t explain what the establishment serves?

The table set up at The Old Man and the Sea in Malindi. PHOTO | ABIGAIL ARUNGA

The table set up at The Old Man and the Sea in Malindi. PHOTO | ABIGAIL ARUNGA

My companion had a piña colada, which was obviously too sweet, but well-mixed regardless. I’m not a big fan of juice-like cocktails. I had one of their special rum cocktails whose name I unfortunately can’t remember, but it definitely hit the spot.

After a long day, we were feeling greedy enough to have a starter, and a cocktail, and a main course, AND dessert.

One of the inside seating areas at The Old Man and The Sea in Malindi. PHOTO | ABIGAIL ARUNGA

One of the inside seating areas at The Old Man and The Sea in Malindi. PHOTO | ABIGAIL ARUNGA

For the starter, we had garlic bread – a welcome change from a version of garlic bread we had had earlier in the day that was basically toasted bread with visible chunks of garlic pressed into it. It tasted as bad as it sounded, and I was wondering if I was in the business of actively trying to chase away vampires with that overpowering smell. The Old Man and The Sea, thankfully, gets garlic bread right.

The Old Man and the Sea restaurant in Malindi. PHOTO | ABIGAIL ARUNGA

The Old Man and the Sea restaurant in Malindi. PHOTO | ABIGAIL ARUNGA

For my main course, I had prawns, which came with delicious coconut rice, and for dessert I had a scoop of ice cream – again, basic greed. I am not sure if I was riding on the hype, or I was particularly hungry, but everything I ate that night was tasty without exception – including the lobster I pilfered from my companion’s plate. I’m officially a fan of all restaurants with a Hemingway touch.

The cover of the menu at The Old Man and the Sea. PHOTO | ABIGAIL ARUNGA

The cover of the menu at The Old Man and the Sea. PHOTO | ABIGAIL ARUNGA

Wondering where to get the 411 on what’s happening in and around Nairobi’s foodie scene? There’s a lot of places you could go, but here’s where we want you to be – getting the dish on the dish. Get it? We knew you would.



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Sordid tale of the bank ‘that would bribe God’

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Bank of Credit and Commerce International. August 1991. [File, Standard]

“This bank would bribe God.” These words of a former employee of the disgraced Bank of Credit and Commerce International (BCCI) sum up one of the most rotten global financial institutions.
BCCI pitched itself as a top bank for the Third World, but its spectacular collapse would reveal a web of transnational corruption and a playground for dictators, drug lords and terrorists.
It was one of the largest banks cutting across 69 countries and its aftermath would cause despair to innocent depositors, including Kenyans.
BCCI, which had $20 billion (Sh2.1 trillion in today’s exchange rate) assets globally, was revealed to have lost more than its entire capital.
The bank was founded in 1972 by the crafty Pakistani banker Agha Hasan Abedi.
He was loved in his homeland for his charitable acts but would go on to break every rule known to God and man.
In 1991, the Bank of England (BoE) froze its assets, citing large-scale fraud running for several years. This would see the bank cease operations in multiple countries. The Luxembourg-based BCCI was 77 per cent owned by the Gulf Emirate of Abu Dhabi.  
BoE investigations had unearthed laundering of drugs money, terrorism financing and the bank boasted of having high-profile customers such as Panama’s former strongman Manual Noriega as customers.
The Standard, quoting “highly placed” sources reported that Abu Dhabi ruler Sheikh Zayed Sultan would act as guarantor to protect the savings of Kenyan depositors.
The bank had five branches countrywide and panic had gripped depositors on the state of their money.
Central Bank of Kenya (CBK) would then move to appoint a manager to oversee the operations of the BCCI operations in Kenya.
It sent statements assuring depositors that their money was safe.
The Standard reported that the Sheikh would be approaching the Kenyan and other regional subsidiaries of the bank to urge them to maintain operations and assure them of his personal support.
It was said that contact between CBK and Abu Dhabi was “likely.”
This came as the British Ambassador to the UAE Graham Burton implored the gulf state to help compensate Britons, and the Indian government also took similar steps.
The collapse of BCCI was, however, not expect to badly hit the Kenyan banking system. This was during the sleazy 1990s when Kenya’s banking system was badly tested. It was the era of high graft and “political banks,” where the institutions fraudulently lent to firms belonging or connected to politicians, who were sometimes also shareholders.
And even though the impact was expected to be minimal, it was projected that a significant number of depositors would transfer funds from Asian and Arab banks to other local institutions.
“Confidence in Arab banking has taken a serious knock,” the “highly placed” source told The Standard.
BCCI didn’t go down without a fight. It accused the British government of a conspiracy to bring down the Pakistani-run bank.  The Sheikh was said to be furious and would later engage in a protracted legal battle with the British.
“It looks to us like a Western plot to eliminate a successful Muslim-run Third World Bank. We know that it often acted unethically. But that is no excuse for putting it out of business, especially as the Sultan of Abu Dhabi had agreed to a restructuring plan,” said a spokesperson for British Asians.
A CBK statement signed by then-Deputy Governor Wanjohi Murithi said it was keenly monitoring affairs of the mother bank and would go to lengths to protect Kenyan depositors.
“In this respect, the CBK has sought and obtained the assurance of the branch’s management that the interests of depositors are not put at risk by the difficulties facing the parent company and that the bank will meet any withdrawal instructions by depositors in the normal course of business,” said Mr Murithi.
CBK added that it had maintained surveillance of the local branch and was satisfied with its solvency and liquidity.
This was meant to stop Kenyans from making panic withdrawals.
For instance, armed policemen would be deployed at the bank’s Nairobi branch on Koinange Street after the bank had announced it would shut its Kenyan operations.
In Britain, thousands of businesses owned by British Asians were on the verge of financial ruin following the closure of BCCI.
Their firms held almost half of the 120,000 bank accounts registered with BCCI in Britain. 
The African Development Bank was also not spared from this mess, with the bulk of its funds deposited and BCCI and stood to lose every coin.
Criminal culture
In Britain, local authorities from Scotland to the Channel Islands are said to have lost over £100 million (Sh15.2 billion in today’s exchange rate).
The biggest puzzle remained how BCCI was allowed by BoE and other monetary regulation authorities globally to reach such levels of fraudulence.
This was despite the bank being under tight watch owing to the conviction of some of its executives on narcotics laundering charges in the US.
Coast politician, the late Shariff Nassir, would claim that five primary schools in Mombasa lost nearly Sh1 million and appealed to then Education Minister George Saitoti to help recover the savings. Then BoE Governor Robin Leigh-Pemberton condemned it as so deeply immersed in fraud that rescue or recovery – at least in Britain – was out of the question.
“The culture of the bank is criminal,” he said. The bank was revealed to have targeted the Third World and had created several “institutional devices” to promote its operations in developing countries.
These included the Third World Foundation for Social and Economic Studies, a British-registered charity.
“It allowed it to cultivate high-level contacts among international statesmen,” reported The Observer, a British newspaper.
BCCI also arranged an annual Third World lecture and a Third World prize endowment fund of about $10 million (Sh1 billion in today’s exchange rate).
Winners of the annual prize had included Nelson Mandela (1985), sir Bob Geldof (1986) and Archbishop Desmond Tutu (1989).
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Monitor water pumps remotely via your phone

Tracking and monitoring motor vehicles is not new to Kenyans. Competition to install affordable tracking devices is fierce but essential for fleet managers who receive reports online and track vehicles from the comfort of their desk.

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Agricultural Development Corporation Chief Accountant Gerald Karuga on the Spot Over Fraud –

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Gerald Karuga, the acting chief accountant at the Agricultural Development Corporation (ADC), is on the spot over fraud in land dealings.

ADC was established in 1965 through an Act of Parliament Cap 346 to facilitate the land transfer programme from European settlers to locals after Kenya gained independence.

Karuga is under fire for allegedly aiding a former powerful permanent secretary in the KANU era Benjamin Kipkulei to deprive ADC beneficiaries of their land in Naivasha.

Kahawa Tungu understands that the aggrieved parties continue to protest the injustice and are now asking the Ethics and Anti-corruption Commission (EACC) and the Directorate of Criminal Investigations (DCI) to probe Karuga.

A source who spoke to Weekly Citizen publication revealed that Managing Director Mohammed Dulle is also involved in the mess at ADC.

Read: Ministry of Agriculture Apologizes After Sending Out Tweets Portraying the President in bad light

Dulle is accused of sidelining a section of staffers in the parastatal.

The sources at ADC intimated that Karuga has been placed strategically at ADC to safeguard interests of many people who acquired the corporations’ land as “donations” from former President Daniel Arap Moi.

Despite working at ADC for many years Karuga has never been transferred, a trend that has raised eyebrows.

“Karuga has worked here for more than 30 years and unlike other senior officers in other parastatals who are transferred after promotion or moved to different ministries, for him, he has stuck here for all these years and we highly suspect that he is aiding people who were dished out with big chunks of land belonging to the corporation in different parts of the country,” said the source.

In the case of Karuga safeguarding Kipkulei’s interests, workers at the parastatals and the victims who claim to have lost their land in Naivasha revealed that during the Moi regime some senior officials used dubious means to register people as beneficiaries of land without their knowledge and later on colluded with rogue land officials at the Ministry of Lands to acquire title deeds in their names instead of those of the benefactors.

Read Also: Galana Kulalu Irrigation Scheme To Undergo Viability Test Before Being Privatised

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“We have information that Karuga has benefitted much from Kipkulei through helping him and this can be proved by the fact that since the matter of the Naivasha land began, he has been seen changing and buying high-end vehicles that many people of his rank in government can’t afford to buy or maintain,” the source added.

“He is even building a big apartment for rent in Ruiru town.”

The wealthy officer is valued at over Sh1.5 billion in prime properties and real estate.

Last month, more than 100 squatters caused scenes in Naivasha after raiding a private firm owned by Kipkulei.

The squatters, who claimed to have lived on the land for more than 40 years, were protesting take over of the land by a private developer who had allegedly bought the land from the former PS.

They pulled down a three-kilometre fence that the private developed had erected.

The squatters claimed that the former PS had not informed them that he had sold the land and that the developer was spraying harmful chemicals on the grass affecting their livestock and homes built on a section of the land.

Read Also: DP Ruto Wants NCPB And Other Agricultural Bodies Merged For Efficiency

Naivasha Deputy County Commissioner Kisilu Mutua later issued a statement warning the squatters against encroaching on Kipkuleir’s land.

“They are illegally invading private land. We shall not allow the rule of the jungle to take root,” warned Mutua.

Meanwhile, a parliamentary committee recently demanded to know identities of 10 faceless people who grabbed 30,350 acres of land belonging to the parastatal, exposing the rot at the corporation.

ADC Chairman Nick Salat, who doubles up as the KANU party Secretary-General, denied knowledge of the individuals and has asked DCI to probe the matter.

Email your news TIPS to [email protected] or WhatsApp +254708677607. You can also find us on Telegram through www.t.me/kahawatungu

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William Ruto eyes Raila Odinga Nyanza backyard

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Deputy President William Ruto will next month take his ‘hustler nation’ campaigns to his main rival, ODM leader Raila Odinga’s Nyanza backyard, in an escalation of the 2022 General Election competition.

Acrimonious fall-out

Development agenda

Won’t bear fruit

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